Conservatism and "hamburgers, on fine china, with ramekins..."

This week's New Yorker has an excellent profile (not yet online) of protopaleocon Peter Viereck. Writer Tom Reiss takes us from the darkened western Massachusetts home of the ascotted Viereck to a lunch with William F. Buckley -- "a loosened tie underneath his crewneck sweater" -- in the latter's Manhattan apartment to explore if (and where) conservatism went astray.

My favorite sentence, evocative for its imagery and commas, and which launches an excellent Buckley quote about Iraq and neoconservatism, is this:

Buckley's housekeeper, a stout Slovak woman, served us hamburgers, on fine china, with ramekins for ketchup and mustard on each plate, and I asked Buckley how he felt about conservatism's current course.